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Self Drive Itineraries

R. D Blackmore, author of Lorna Doone was educated at Blundell's School in Tiverton, and also at Exeter College, Devon. Later in life he was called to the Bar but was unable to continue due to ill health. He married and later upon receiving an inheritance moved to the country to write poetry and novels. His third novel, Lorna Doone was an imaginative and exciting tale of Exmoor. Today, the lush Devon landscape draws thousands of fans of the 19th century novel each year, keen to relive the moment Lorna is felled by a bandit's bullet at the altar.

The Tour
From Tiverton in mid Devon, travel north west along the A361 to South Molton, a quaint, historic market town. The prospective bride of Tom Faggus was from South Molton and Tom lived and had his smithy in tiny North Molton, 3km away. From here you can travel on to Barnstaple at the head of the Taw estuary (19km), which was once a ship-building and textile town. Its 13th century arched bridge crosses the River Taw in the centre of the town and it was from this bridge that Tom Faggus, the highwayman and cousin of John Ridd, leapt onto his horse during one of his most dramatic escapes.

From Barnstaple take the A39 road towards Lynmouth, and visit Arlington Court, now a National Trust property, which was built in 1822. Here you will find a carriage museum with an opportunity to take a ride through the 11 hectares of wonderful gardens. Later continue on to Lynmouth passing through the Blackmoor Gate, named after a local farmer who was a predecessor of R. D. Blackmore. On arrival in Lynmouth, a picturesque harbour village, take time to visit the fascinating water operated cliff railway that connects the villages of Lymouth and Lynton. A cliff walk from Lynton will take you to the Valley of the Rocks. Mother Melldrum, who warned John Ridd against the Doones sheltered from the wind and rain within the Devil's Cheese Ring. The Cheese Ring is a strange pile of rocks, set in the rugged valley, and so-called because of its likeness to a giant cheese press.

From Lynmouth, continue on to Malmsmead, again along the A39 and passing through Countisbury. One April John Ridd journeyed on the higher road through 'Cosgate', or County Gate and through the tiny hamlet of Countisbury. Badgworthy Water, on whose bank stands a memorial stone to Blackmore, is bridged at the tiny hamlet of Malmsmead, near the old house known as Lorna Doone Farm, though only noted in the book as the home of the church warden, Nicholas Snowe. To the south is Doone Valley. Its hills rise to over 300 feet above the tiny stream. The Doones built their encampment of single storey timber huts, the framework filled with stones and peat and roofed with turf and moss. At the higher, and western end is Doone Gate, not actually a gate but the principal approach to the stronghold where a large rock would have provided the basis for a guarded entrance. To the eastern end is Waterslide. This was John's favoured route into the Doone Valley where he first met Lorna and later returned for their secret meetings. One terrible winter the frozen Waterslide provided an escape route for John and Lorna on a roped sled.

At Oare you can find the church where Lorna was shot at the altar whilst marrying John Ridd. Continue along the A39 to Porlock where once the sea came right up to the village, but now stops 2 miles away at the harbour village of Porlock Weir. In the novel, John Ridd paid one shilling for two large packages of gunpowder and a piece of lead in Porlock. From Porlock travel on to Minehead, a Victorian resort developed around an old fishing port on the coast below Exmoor. Here you will see former characterful fishermen's cottages standing beside the 17th century harbour. From Minehead, travel along the coast to Watchet. This was the scene of Lorna's kidnapping by the outlaw Doones. At the 12th century church of St. Decuman's, John Ridd sought the grave of Lorna's mother, the Countess Dugal. From here a visit to the medieval village of Dunster. A picture postcard village with a Yarn Market at one end of the High Street and a castle at the other. Parts of the castle date from the 13th century. It was here that Mrs Alexander was inspired to write the hymn 'All things bright and beautiful'. From Dunster take a drive to Exford en-route you will see Dunkery Beacon, the highest point on Exmoor. The Beacon, used by the Doones to light the way to their encampment, is now marked by a cairn of stones. Exford is situated on the banks of the river Exe and is overlooked by high moorland. This is the parish where Tom Faggus contrived to join forces with a group of men sent to apprehend him, tricked them into emptying their guns and the robbed them at the point of his own.

From here you can travel south to Dulverton which lies on the river Barle and has many old buildings of interest and is also home of the Exmoor National Park Visitor Centre. All Saints Church has a set of stained glass windows donated by Sir George Williams, the founder of the YMCA, who was born at nearby Ashway Farm. The ancient clapper bridge and Tarr Steps are probably of Iron Age origins. This was the summer home of Mother Meldrum, the wise woman of the story who warned John Ridd against the Doones. Now continue south to Bampton and pass through Exebridge. Lorna first entered the Exmoor that is now Lorna Doone Country at Exebridge, and she and her mother would doubtless have passed over the old stone bridge on their coach ride from Bampton to Dulverton. Bampton is an attractive riverside market town where in October the famous Bampton Fair is held.

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